by Jim Gruber » Sat Feb 25, 2006 1:58 pm
John,
Save a whole lot of grief and just stick with a Bugeye Bonnet. You get all of the looks as if it were a real Bugeye and other than the purists and people who know LBC's they don't know the difference. Changing the front end over to accept a Bugeye bonnet is as simple as trimming a 3/4" lip off of the edge of the outer fender well, adding the correct mounting pads to support the bonnet, and doing a quick disconnect for the headlamp and turn signal wiring harness. I built a front hinge set from plans I found so I'll have easier access to the engine compartment and I will latch at the bottom back corner of the bonnet. The whole process is simple and straight forward and will actually add value to the car.
Grafting on a Bugeye rear, well one I'd miss the trunk to throw tonneau in, spare tire, and all of the other crap you haul around and want to keep out of site. Yes the Bugeye rear is quite cute but I was able to adapt Bugeye Bumperettes to the stock mounting brackets and it looks quite nice.
Save yourself the time and expense of the rear end. Between a Fibrerglass bonnet at $900 and probably the same for a fiberglass rear, that's money I'd put towards a Bugeye Project. If you truly want a Bugeye find yourself a project one and transplant motor, tranny, rear end, disc brakes and all of the more modern dreature comforts and you'll end up with something that is worth something when you are done.
BTW- I do have a set up Bugeye Bonnet hood support sliders sitting in my garage that are available for a rear hinged Bugeye Bonnet. Price will be right.
I'm working of restoring a metal Bugeye bonnet as we speak. Needs some metal welded back in spots and some new bondo and sandblasting but I'll end up with a nice addition to my '68 Sprite Bugsy when I'm done.
Jim Gruber
Dayton, OH
Bugsy - 68 Sprite
Bugeye in Disguise
