Rotisserie and Cockpit Trim

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Rotisserie and Cockpit Trim

Postby Arcticmg » Sun Feb 19, 2006 5:22 pm

I am still looking for rear cockpit trim. A chap from Canda responded but my emails keep being returned. Also, does anyone know of a plan for building a simple Bugeye rotisserie?
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Postby HAN5L778 » Mon Feb 20, 2006 10:02 am

I've seen several rotisseries made from engine stands. You would ahve to use the ones with 2 front support legs. You also need at least 34" clearance from the center of the rotating mount to any part of the rotisserie. I've used front bumper supports mounted on a T-bar bracket for the front end. For the rear I've used square body bumper brackets bolted in place, or long square tubing bolted to the rear spring plates. Either of these bolted or welded to a T-bar. You have to connect to 2 stands together to prevent them from spreading. Good luck.
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Postby BWillis » Mon Feb 20, 2006 10:32 am

Look at this link for a cheaper way to roll the tub around and even flip it if you need to.

http://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB30&Number=148073&Searchpage=2&Main=148073&Words=BWillis&topic=&Search=true#Post148073

Heres the best shot I have of my car on the jig:

http://www.tri-countyrc.com/galleries/b ... _3184.html


HTH,

Ben in SC
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Postby Matt » Thu Feb 23, 2006 2:19 pm

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Postby NOHOME1 » Fri Feb 24, 2006 10:07 pm

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2203663

Scroll down to the bottom to see a two engine stand version. It does not rotate 360 but I do not see too many jobs where it would be a help. The stands had to be modified so that the pivots are parallel to the ground.

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Postby Phil » Sat Feb 25, 2006 10:20 am

Arcticmg, I don’t know where you live but if you are close to Toronto area I'll lend you my wooden one that I copied from the Gerardgarage web site. If I remember correctly, it cost me less then $100.00 to fabricate.

Pete, where did you get your car acid dipped? Was it expensive?
I went with the sandblasting route and used the paint stripper on the top panels.
Is it true that by dipping it, it does not remove the rust? What is your personal experience?

Sorry Articmg for the hijack of your post.....
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Postby D.Valentino » Sat Feb 25, 2006 11:12 am

Phil, I had mine acid dipped and media blast w/ walnut shells, than dipped in an epoxy primer. It took off everything, ie; bondo, rust whatever was on the car. Do not know about Canada, but here in So. Cal. w/ the rules we have here it cost $1,600 to do mine.
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Postby jlaird » Sat Feb 25, 2006 11:37 am

Oh, primer diped. Wouldn't that be wonderful.
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Postby BWillis » Sat Feb 25, 2006 12:38 pm

I have a wooden frame as well. I doubt you're near SC but if you are I offer the same invitation as Phil.

Ben in SC
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Postby Phil » Sat Feb 25, 2006 7:04 pm

D.Valentino
Very impressive job, I must add. Cost wise? Not that bad at all.
I must add that cars in your area are much more intact then up (north) here. The only dilemma I have is this. Do you prime it right away, or weld all the panels in place and then primer the car? It’s sort of a catch 22 scenario. If you prime the car right away, it will protect the metal from further rust but it is not fun or good for you, trying to weld things together with primer smouldering in your face. Not to mention your welds will be of poor quality due to contamination. If you wait until all the welding is done then the car is exposed to the unwanted environment and the rust will set in. I think if my body (car that is) was intact, I wouldn’t think twice about having it acid dipped. In my opinion, money well spent.
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Postby BWillis » Sat Feb 25, 2006 8:28 pm

Phil,

You can prime the car with welding primer to protect it while you do the panels. The primer can be welded through.

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Postby Bill Masquelier » Sat Feb 25, 2006 8:48 pm

YES-- have your cars body primered IMMEDIATELY after blasting!! I had my MGA's body blasted and not primed (in dry, sunny San Diego) and the very next morning it had the most horrible red tint all over it. I was sick and because I had used-up nearly my entire budget I didn't have it redone but sold it (for a horrible loss) and have never had an "A" since.
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Postby NOHOME1 » Sat Feb 25, 2006 10:23 pm

Phil:

I had the tub dipped at techno strip in Brampton. If you look at the pisc, you will see that the dip removes anything that is not solid metal. You will also see that there was not much solid metal!!!

The dip method does seem to have its limits when it comes to rust trapped between seams, as there was still some rust to be found as I removed panels. If you look at the picture where the A-post is exposed with the kick panel off, you will see what I mean.

One of the best parts about dipping everything is that all the suspension and other small bis are clean, ready for paint, and you will save a ton of time.

I have sourced a better clip for the car and am going to have it dipped at a different place in Brantford. The place is called Grenville metal cleaners and charges $2.00/lb to dip your parts. I will post results on my site.

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