need help with floor dilemma HELP

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need help with floor dilemma HELP

Postby newoldspriteowner » Sat Aug 02, 2008 12:27 am

Hi all at last I found my little sprite a 1966 primrose yellow MarkIII. Of course it is not perfect but I still drove it 650 miles on it's first outing from Virginia were I bought it to Canada a nice trip with a few intense moments due to break loss in the Adirondacks a rear wheel cylinder failed . It needs care but it is not a basket case basically a restore as you drive car.
Doing a bit of mechanical work to it but I am facing a dilemma with the floors both front sides driver and passenger need to be repaired there is some plating there but it is not a great job plates were riveted to both sides hard to evaluate until i can lift the car high enough to properly see what's what the portion from the cross section to the rear are very good . My question I guess is. if the holes in floor are rather small is it worth it to just patch with floor paneling and mig welding it. Will the strenght of the actual floor with patches affect the rigidity of the car or is it best to invest in a whole new floor after all the floor tubs are not that expensive.
If I decide to put a whole new tub which is the best to buy ? should I go with British heritage? also what is the process of installing (steps) and is it that complicated to remove existing floor. inner and outer sills are good must I remove them to install new tub must I strip the car of it's engine etc basically what are the steps? Help to ease my mind and also can someone who has the experience and done this before guide me through the process for my part I am a newbie
Regards
Brian
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Re: need help with floor dilemma HELP

Postby Bugzy59 » Sun Aug 03, 2008 1:48 pm

Brian
I think you would need a heck of lot of rot to warrant getting a new tub - and not just problems with floors.
I think it is normal to replace the floors on an LBC. I had my left floor replaced. I bought the new panel from Victoria British (Ashley Hinton makes the panels) gave it and the car to the welder and presto it was done. There was an article in British Motoring (Moss Motors) a year ago about replacing floor panels on an MGB.
As to my passenger side, I had a big hole up front which we patched with a plate and a bunch of little holes which were not patched at all. I put down Dynamat Extreme sound deadener which effectively covered the holes preventing water intrusion.
I dont think there is any problem with strength by welding in patch panels.
There are a lot of photos on this site of rust repair.
Erik
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Re: need help with floor dilemma HELP

Postby spritenut » Sun Aug 03, 2008 8:51 pm

I have had the local sheet metal shop (ductwork) fold me up some floor pans.
I measured the floor pan and added 1 inch on each side, 1 inch up the frame and 3" up the toe board.
For the main floors, I had to cut the curve of the tunnel but they still had the inch on the other 3 sides.
I used some self driller screws to hold it in as I welded it along the inch lip then filled in the screw holes like spot welds.
New floors for under $30 but that was 5 years ago.
Frank Clarici
Toms River, NJ
The BETTER not BIGGER Healeys
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Re: need help with floor dilemma HELP

Postby newoldspriteowner » Mon Aug 04, 2008 8:08 pm

Thanks to both of you for easing my queries about replacing the floors eventually I will have to do the full job but not this year I hope. The reason for the question is here in the Province of Québec all repairs to floors must be welded no rivets nor screws otherwise the car cannot get safetied. Right now I am doing I am more concentrated on mechanical things just done the rear end springs and brake. And now to the front there is also some work there so if I can doe with patching the floors I will be able to get the car back on it's feet without busting the budget.
Will keep you informed of how things work out when I finish with the front end and take it to the body shop.
Brian
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