Horn with a mind of its own

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Horn with a mind of its own

Postby healeyguy » Mon Oct 03, 2005 10:46 pm

Almost there!!. I have installed a Moss Motor after market steering wheel with center horn push on the Bugeye and if I am sitting still it works fine. but as soon as I start it or drive the car the horn starts to intermittently sound off. Typically just short bursts, no pattern, no rhyme or reason. I am powering through an aftermarket relay, with the ground going through the horn push.

My gas gauge that always indicated full, than went all over the place now only registers empty. Any ideas on how to trouble shot this issue.

Does anyone have any good photos to show how the different headlight buckets take the different retainer rins and chrome outter rings? I have a pile of old stuff and I cannot figure from the parts catatlogue which ones go to which headlight etc???
healeyguy
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Postby ccootsona » Mon Oct 24, 2005 5:27 pm

I had the same problem in my bugeye sprite. It turns out that the horn was grounding out when I put pressure on the steering wheel or hit a big bump. The trim ring on a bugeye has three locating screws in back which were not tight enough on my car (but don't overtighten because the threads will strip easily) and the horn grounding ring that the brush contacts was touching the steering column on the inside. That explained why pressure to the side on the steering wheel (as when turning or hitting a bump) made it honk. Check for possible gounding spots near the column. You'll probably need to remove the wheel to inspect the trim ring. In my case, the helicoil thread inserts in the steering column trim ring were pulled out (thanks previous owner!) so I used small plastic drywall anchors that expand as you tighten. I just modified them just enough to prevent the trim piece from wiggling and as a firther precaution, I wrapped the column with a few turns of electrical tape where it passes through, to prevent contact.

My guess is it's probably the sending unit but you may want to be sure it is getting full voltage from the battery before you drop the tank. Also, you could check the output wire going to the gauge to make sure it's not just a bad connection to the sender. I checked the operation of my sending unit by connecting it to a voltmeter with the audible signal turned on, and as you run volts through it, slowly move the float and look for dead spots in the range. You chould hear the pitch change as you move the float because of changin resistance through the sending unit. If you get gaps in the signal you can take the cover off the sender and check that the contacts along the coiled wire (resistor?) are in contact the whole way. I would probably just replace the sending unit if you determine it is causing problems.

Good luck!
Craig Cootsona
1959 Bugeye Sprite, 1275, 5-speed
1957 MGA Coupe (in progress)
1977 MGB
Tacoma, WA
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