Rear Hub Seal Removal...

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Rear Hub Seal Removal...

Postby HP Spridget #53 » Sun Sep 19, 2004 12:12 pm

When I bought this '72 Midget, it had quite a loud whine from the rear end. I checked the oil level and it was darn near non-existent as in empty. And what was there was more a sludge than anything providing any lubricating qualities.

Anyway, oil drained and refilled and whine was quite noticeably reduced. Took the car on an 850 mile weekend trip to Michigan's UP and back and figured out the remaining whine was still too annoying.

Knowing I needed to work on the rear brakes, I also ordered all the stuff to replace both rear hub bearings. Yesterday I pulled the axles, hubs, etc., and yes most likely the whine (not noticeably different during accel/decel) was being caused by the left rear bearing.

I was able to remove the hubs and knock out the bearings but my problem is getting the old seals out of the hubs! How does one go about removing them? Seems they are "buried" down inside the hub with no lip or anything else but rubber to get ahold of. (These are nothing like my double bearing hubs on the race cars!)

BTW, these seals might or might not be installed backwards. The U shape with the spring (open side of the seal) is facing away from the center of the hub, or in other words, is facing the center of the car when the hub is installed on the car.

Thanks,

Tim
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Postby HP Spridget #53 » Mon Sep 20, 2004 2:22 pm

Well, the new parts arrived from the Little British Car Company today. Great service as usual! Thanks Jeff! :)

Got the hub seals out and also found out they were installed correctly. Funny what you find out when you actually R-E-A-D the manual. :oops:

Cleaning up the old parts now and providing a shot or two of paint. Planning on most of the reassembly tomorrow. :roll:

Here's hoping that whine is really gone and not being caused by the differential itself! :wink:

Tim
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Postby dan » Mon Sep 27, 2004 12:57 pm

How about an update Tim? Did the new seals solve the problem?

I never was really impressed with the whole rear hub design--especially the outer seals (with the o-ring & gasket combination). Seems to be dependent on having the road wheel lug nuts properly & evenly torqued down (one of the reasons I continue to use a torque wrench on my lug nuts).

Seems I always have a drip or two under the pumpkin as well... :(

Anyone out there have a "drip free" rear axle? (And running it without any oil doesn't count! :lol: )

d
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pools of oil and 'drip free'.......

Postby JB » Mon Sep 27, 2004 4:45 pm

Dan...

Drip free is an oxymoron in the English language when referring to island cars b4 1990....but

A Spridget diff can be made drip free.

No synthetic oils and both side sealed outer bearings...(207FF) and an excellent, smooth and round housing surface where the seal rides. Pack the seal groove with Shell Rotella or Chevron Delo grease....the real secret, doing all this is to add 1" i.d. o-rings in various thicknesses between the housing and axle flange to keep the gear lube in the housing and tubes and not letting it get in the hub cavity.

Downside??? ...running the seal dry. Every 10K miles repack the seal groove area. 20K new bearings.

IF you use the paper gasket you MUST set the hub end play and thats done with the gasket thickness. The ones currently availiable from M or VB are too thick.......about .015" gasket thickness is close. Use the large o-ring in any case with a bead of Hylomar.
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Postby HP Spridget #53 » Tue Sep 28, 2004 1:23 pm

Ah yes, an update. Turns out I ended up on a twelve hour shift at work the rest of last week so the only thing completed before the weekend was prepping the hubs, ie., the new seals and bearings installed in the hubs.

Saturday turned out to be the big day in that I assembled the whole thing using new O-rings and gaskets from Winners Circle (had them on hand), installed the new brake shoes and drums, etc. Even put in a new set of pads on the front brakes. (Wasn't smart enough to assemble the brakes before installing the hubs. I think I'm that "smart" now...) :shock:

Was still intending to install a new exhaust system before removing the jack stands so the car remained in the garage. Come Sunday -- well let's just say the exhaust is still waiting. I told my older son he could take it out for a test drive while I hit sack. (Going to bed at noon to work midnights sucks)

So I get up about 8pm and ask the kid how the test drive was. He comes back with something about terrible noises from the trans and rear end. Disappointed, I went on to work. Monday, I decide to find out what the kid is talking about and take the car for a ride myself.

In a nutshell, the whine is gone and I now can hear things (not bad things) that weren't noticeable before. The car was a real pleasure to drive and I'm looking forward to a "fall color tour" sometime during the next couple of weeks.

And roger the above comment about synthetics and drips! My race car usually drips from the drain plug. I've tried bare plug, Teflon tape, pipe dope, etc., all to no avail. Even considered some 5 minute epoxy but thought better of that! Dinosaur oil seems to not get by the drain plug but the synthetics do. (BTW, being a glutton for punishment, I put synthetic into the street car just to see what happens with it...)

Now for the blown fuse problem that just developed. Losing the tach, turn signals, and fuel gage as soon as I turn on the key. From mechanicals to Lucas -- yes, I love my LBC's!! :wink:

Ya'll have a great day! :D

Tim
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Postby johnan » Fri Dec 17, 2004 3:47 pm

Tim,
Just read your post re the oil seal removal.Sorry, I have just joined the forum!
According to my information the open side of the seal (with the spring visible) should be towards the bearing and not towards the centre of the car,which means yours were incorrectly fitted when you took them apart in the first place.
They would still work but may be more prone to leak if fitted the wrong way round.
I may be wrong but mine were fitted as I described, and my manuals agree with this way of fitting the seals.
John
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