Rebuidling Rib Case 1275 Trans?

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Rebuidling Rib Case 1275 Trans?

Postby HP Spridget #53 » Sat Sep 17, 2005 5:32 pm

So far I am zero for two. Had two Victoria British rebuild kits on hand that I bought a couple of years ago and thought I'd have a go at it.

First trans is stock was extremely sloppy shifting. Put in all the parts, closed up the gaps a little on the 1/2 and 3/4 shift forks and put things back together. Now trans does not want to go into 2nd gear. Betting its got to do with the plunger in the hub that runs between a groove in the third motion shaft and the internal surface of the gear. And in use, it wants to pop out of third.

Second trans is a straight cut close ratio box for my race car. It was leaking oil from the rear seal and popping out of third while on the track. Installed the rebuild kit and tried it out on the bench -- it was working perfectly. Went so far as to installing the actual shifter and observing the internals with the side cover off. Closed it up and installed in the car -- still working perfectly. Sitting in the car (w/o engine running and after filling with oil), I ran it through the gears a few times and everything was good.

Then I shifted into reverse (not the first time either) and the trans would not go into neutral. The shifter would move from the reverse position to the neutral position approximating the point for selecting third or fourth and move no further to the left.

At this point I verfied the thing was NOT in neutral (car was, and is, still up on the jack stands). I started the engine and sure enough the trans seems to be stuck in either first or second.

Sorry about the length of the post but I am not giving up. Engine and trans are about to come back out for analysis.

Anybody out there got any tips or secrets on rebulding these rib case transmissions?

Frustration level running a bit on the high side!! :evil:

Tim
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ribcases

Postby Darryl S » Sat Sep 17, 2005 11:34 pm

Don't feel bad. I have 4 torn apart in different stages trying to figure these things out. I have good gears and bad gears. I'm trying to take 2 or 3 and make 1 decent box. If anybody has any suggestions please post them.
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Postby HP Spridget #53 » Sun Sep 18, 2005 8:24 am

Hi Daryl,

Sorry to hear of your problems too but at least I don't feel like the Lone Ranger. :)

In typical racer fashion, my son and I thrashed in the garage until late last night. The problem on the race car trans cost me running qualification and a race yesterday.

The good news is we found the problem with being stuck in second gear on the SCCR trans. This does not qualify as a secret but more an "oops!" It seems I'd left out the reverse to 1st/2nd shift rod interlock plunger -- a piece rounded on both ends about the size of a peanut!! :oops:

At any rate, the car is all back together and things appear good again. Heading out to load the car and get to the track. Got another class race and a feature today! :D

Will check back in here periodically with anything else I learn as I too have numerous transmissions laying around and desire to build a few good ones and get rid of the junk. The goal is to end up with three good SCCRs (two in race cars and a spare), and a spare stock trans for the street car.

One observation before I run. I did find several gears where the coating for the synchros (baulk rings) was worn or even missing in some areas on the gear. I won't be reusing those gears.

What manual are you using to guide you?

Later, and best wishes your way!! :D

Tim
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Postby Darryl S » Sun Sep 18, 2005 10:10 pm

Hey Tim,

I'm currently using the Haynes Manual. This is the first time, I've really been inside the gearboxes. I'd like to get 1 good stock box together from parts before I jump into a SCCR box. My Dad just brought me a 1275 and a ribcase a couple a weeks ago. It seems to be ok but I'd like to have another if possible from the other parts and pieces. Between all my projects, I really need 3. My street Midget has my old stock ribcase that came from my racecar. Reverse works when it wants too. Second is only there on upshifts. My Autocross car may end up with a stock 1500 and tranny due to the ribcase issue. My Bugeye may have the 948 and the smoothcase. Unfortunately that leaves no spares. Good luck racing.
Darryl S.
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SCCA GP 1965 Sprite
SCCA Solo II 1975 Midget
1970 Midget
1960 Bugeye
1979 Midget
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Postby HP Spridget #53 » Mon Sep 19, 2005 1:25 pm

Man, sounds like you've a heck of a lot of projects/cars! And a chance for both a lot of work and a lot of fun!

Was going to recommend the SPRITE, MIDGET 1958-69 AUTOBOOK by AUTOPRESS LTD for your transmission work. I'd read someone elses opinion on one the boards I frequent recommending this book over the Haynes manual. So I monitored eBay until one came up and bought it.

Just did a quick comparison between the two and the Haynes manual certainly appears adequate, and has alot more photos, factual information, etc. Probably the only thing I don't see in the Haynes manual is a superb graphic depiction of how and where the interlock balls and plunger, and the detent plungers and springs are installed. In the future, I will consult both manuals!

The racing went OK. Started dead last in the morning class race (missed Saturday qualification and race) and worked my way up through numerous Spec Miatas and had started catching some of the Production cars. We use a split start with Prod cars up front so startign dead last meant starting behind the second group. The afternoon race sucked! I was gridded fourth of nineteen and ended up just cruising after a spin. Did spend a couple of laps riding along behind my son in his Midget -- basically putting on a show for the spectators with the two white Midgets running together. Also gave me a chance to observe that car up close on the track (I've owned the kid's car for two years and have yet to drive it!), and to look at the kid's lines.

The best news? The SC/CR trans worked flawlessly! Even felt a twinge of pride and satisfaction in the way it performed. :D

Of course all the means is ultimately I can rework these things and therefore gave myself more work to do this winter by rebuilding a few more... :)

Well, gotta run. Took some vacation time and it is time to grab the younger son and head to Michigan's upper penninsula for some brook trout fishing. Trout season is darn near over for this summer and we have not been up there yet!!

Best wishes and anything I can do to help, just let me know! Of course, all this means I'm one for two now on the transmissions. That is alot better than zero for two like I was when I started this thread!

Tim
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trans tips and tricks

Postby JB » Wed Sep 21, 2005 3:32 pm

That was probably me on the Prod board recomending either the Autopress or Bently manual.

What Idid I was lucky enuf to have someone I think back east e-mail me the exploded views of the trans a few years ago.....it was from either of the 2 manuals above. The Haynes and factory shop manual is worthless as far as exactnes and placement of the balls, springs and pegs.

I have found that the receses where these balls/pegs fit into and slide around have burrs and manhandling depending on if anyone has gone before you in a teardown. So they have to be hand reamed and deburred so as to be smooth moving. Exact placement of as I remember the diferent length pegs are most important.

VB is the only source I have found for gearbox small parts and I bet theyre chewing on new/old stock. It would pay to anticipate your needs in the case of pegs and shoulder bolts and small fibre gaskets as this stuff is all drying up.

When placing the shift rods and brass shift forks you have to eyeball and judge the travel on each to look for a bent fork. The 3-4 fork is sometimes bent due to to much muscle...and thats no longer avail new.
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Re: Rebuidling Rib Case 1275 Trans?

Postby winnieqin73 » Thu Mar 22, 2012 4:24 am

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Re: Rebuidling Rib Case 1275 Trans?

Postby pbraun » Wed Apr 25, 2018 10:39 am

Finally, I am done.
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Re: Rebuidling Rib Case 1275 Trans?

Postby hoggie » Sun Apr 29, 2018 5:45 pm

Very good, I'm curious, what parts did you have to replace? I have my old original rib case with a worn laygear, figured it would be too much to restore. I'm running with another I pulled from the junk yard, but I know it has a worn input shaft bearing. Just procrastinating.
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